The Church in Poland

Poland is one of the most religious countries in Europe, outranking even Italy. 95% of Poles belong to the Roman Catholic Church, and though that is a number derived from infant baptism, it's still a striking number. The majority of people are practicing Catholics, and not just on Christmas and Easter: a 2009 poll by the Church revealed that 80% of Poles go to confession at least once a year.

Side wall, Wawel Cathedral

During our first night in Krakow, a Saturday, we noticed quite a few people arriving at the church down the road from our hostel. At first, I remarked that there must be a concert. Then it dawned on me - people were going to church! It was the same situation on Sunday morning and Sunday evening. Throughout the city, the big churches were open to tourists in certain sections and at certain times, since they all held regular services. We saw friendly monks and nuns, probably pilgrims, everywhere. 

Even on a Monday afternoon, we stepped into a Franciscan church to find about a dozen people sitting in prayer, apparently stopping by after work. This spiritual use of a church building is unfortunately remarkable in Europe. In a strange way, being in Poland actually reminded us of being in the United States!

Side door out of St. Mary's Basilica

It's fitting that one of the most famous people from Poland is Karol Wojtyla, who was born in Krakow and served as Archbishop of Krakow in Wawel Cathedral before becoming Pope John Paul II. He is honored with a modest statue on Wawel Hill, which is the country's leading tourist attraction (although Warsaw is the current capital, Krakow was the first capital and remains dearer to most Poles). We were almost expecting a sort of Pope mania, with his image on little trinkets like Michelangelo's David is in Florence, but what we saw was a tame respect which steered well clear of both idolatry and ridiculousness.

Karol Wojtyla, aka John Paul II

Wawel Cathedral, practically adjacent to the fortified old palace at the top of the highest hill along the river, was the site of coronation of Polish kings and holds the tombs of Polish heroes, Westminster Abbey style. Its many side chapels and multiple revisions throughout history make it seem almost messy in design. Here's the mysterious entry gate:

From far away, the ramshackle towers seem very picturesque.

We weren't allowed to take pictures inside, but that was fine by me. If I had to describe my memories from the interior, I'd mention lots of black and white marble tombs, solitary nuns hunched over their rosaries, clear windows, Chris secretly supplying Daisy with more nuts and raisins, and the familiar smell of incense.

St. Mary's Basilica, which towers over the vast main square in the old town, is the other big church to see. Its current Gothic model dates from the 14th century.

With all the red brick and yellowing leafy parks in Krakow, sometimes I felt like I was on an American college campus. Perhaps the old European tradition is what many colleges were trying to evoke with their pedestrianized brick campuses.

Every hour, from the highest bell tower of St. Mary's, a local fireman performs a special job: trumpeting a call from all four sides. According to a famous episode in Polish history, a bugler was sounding the alarm because of an impending 13th century Mongol invasion and was silenced by an enemy's arrow. Therefore, the melody is always abruptly halted midway through to commemorate the event. Every day at noon, the call is even broadcast live on Polish Radio! We stood at the bugler's 4th and final side, where he stayed to wave at the crowd. My heart melted as I watched young Polish kids wave excitedly back up at him. It's their homegrown tradition, as dependable as fireworks on the 4th of July.

 

St. Mary's Bugler

Altar of St. Mary's Basilica

 As soon as I stepped into the church and saw the altar, I ran back outside to buy the "picture-taking permit sticker." This is one of the most breathtakingly colorful and detailed interiors we've ever seen and I wanted to play with my camera a little. Architecture is a special art because you get to actually go inside of it. If I were an artist, I would design complete rooms to go along with my works, with walls and floors and ceilings and furniture as well as traditional art for the wall. Here are a few of the details we had time to sit and enjoy during Daisy's nap:

The Polska (Poland) eagle

Veit Stoss' huge wooden Gothic altar;
intricate windows

Rear of the basilica; organ

Amazing.

P.S. I learned that St. Mary's is the basis of so-called "Polish Cathedral Style" which found its way to churches in the US.