Oktoberfest

Exactly 200 years ago, King Ludwig I of Bavaria married Princess Therese of Saxony on October 7, and to celebrate publicly they organized a grand horse race in Munich on a place now called "Therese Field." Almost every year since then, the celebration has been commemorated as "Oktoberfest," although most of the fest's days land in September (This year, it ran from September 18 to October 4).

This year's poster

It's known for being hokey, crowded (over 6 million visitors came this year), and touristy - not exactly the "Europe through the Back Door" that someone like Rick Steves highlights. Although I have always been curious about the event, it seemed that it was not an essential German experience, especially since we've spent so much time in Munich, and I let it slip on my list of priorities.

Until Amberly. She and I met up in Paris in March of 2009 while she was visiting her parents in Europe, and for this year's rendezvous she proposed Munich, during Oktoberfest. I didn't need much convincing. Thus, last weekend, while Chris used the vacant house for some serious work on his applications, Daisy and I spent four nights and experienced four cities in Bavaria. I hesitantly checked out Oktoberfest and observed our lovely Munich, pulsing with the beat of the iconic festival, proving itself to be above the hoke and cheese.

I've heard people compare the event to a drunken Halloween, since everyone dresses up and there's a lot of beer. However, I'd like to spend a little time refining that idea based on my experiences.

In my opinion, it's more like a Renaissance Fair than Halloween, but even nicer, since the period costumes look absolutely sharp. Men wear finely stitched Lederhosen with crisp checked shirts, knitted socks, and sometimes buttoned earth-tone cardigans. They all look like they are goin' courtin', no matter their ages. Whatever the men's tradition for those calf socks is, it looks pretty cool. (To hold a knife for wood carving?) Women of all shapes and sizes look amazing in their Dirndls, complete with frilly petticoats, colorful aprons, flirtatious white blouses, and tied-up bodices.

Department store window

I didn't even know designers made clothes like these...or with these prices:

Dirndls: 699 Euros, 1750 Euros

So, my first point is that dressing up makes people at Oktoberfest look better, not worse. Next, I learned that, contrary to it being overrun by Americans, Bavarians compose about 75% of the attendees. The locals actually like it! For example, look at this eyeglasses store window I noticed in a non-touristy part of the city:

You wouldn't do this to your store if your neighbors hated Oktoberfest

In addition, it's not just for wild college students. I saw with my own eyes tenderly-dressed families enjoying pony rides and carousels together, holding hands with gingerbread hearts around their necks. It's a heartwarming and kid-friendly event.

Daisy, helping me out with a giant pretzel

Jesse, Susan, Nate, and Amberly at the carnival rides

Well, if I had the only pen in the world, Oktoberfest would be re-billed as a festival for families, local German traditions, and high fashion. What I've conveniently left out of the story are The Tents.

In front of one of the 14 tents

All the breweries of Munich pitch a huge tent, hire a brass band, and release their special Oktoberfest brew. It comes in liters, which are carried 6 at a time by the hardworking ladies with starched white caps. People book reservations for a particular tent in advance by phone. It sounded a little to wild to bring a two year old to, but I got to sneak in with Amberly and Nate to watch for a while. Even though I didn't have a beer, I was still swept away by the music and singing and wanted to join the groups of friends dancing on tables and waving their steins. Next time.

Because of the other-worldly atmosphere of the tents and the potentially quick consumption of multiple liters of beer, I wasn't surprised to see a little stumbling or scrapping outside. I admit that Oktoberfest has its unsavory aspects. Overall, though, I was impressed by how good-natured and un-tacky the whole ritual is. Maybe I'd go again, maybe not...I'll go if you go.