Düsseldorf consistently ranks in Mercer's top 10 world cities ranked on quality of life, joining such biggies as Vienna, Zurich, Vancouver and Auckland, and definitely ousting both Paris and London. My own theory is that high-ranking "quality of life" indicates that there's extensive public transportation, clean and safe streets, good schools, general happiness, and plenty of artistic offerings.
The only thing I knew about Düsseldorf before visiting was its famous spicy mustard in traditional pots. Löwensenf and ABB are the two brands to know (I'll bring some home for Christmas, Dad). People bring in emptied pots for refills, it's that serious.
None other than Vincent Van Gogh immortalized an ABB pot in a still life:
German cities specialize in a given beer, actually banning other cities from producing it. For example, Bamberg makes a smoky Rauchbier, Köln makes a light Kölsch, and even Mülheim makes Mölmsch. Düsseldorf's popular variety is called Altbier, a relation to the British ale, but sold in tinier glasses. Because people generally go through a number of these throughout the course of their meals, servers swipe penciled tallies onto coasters. This was our official bill at Uerige, a classic pre-WWI establishment in the Old Town:
The daily (which of course means every day except for Sunday) Karlplatz outdoor market is always bursting with...everything. Blooms, wooden crafts, specialty spices, homemade pastas, fresh produce, honey from Provence and oil from Italy. I always want it all. For example, all these roses:
With its roots in the romantic Düsseldorf school of painting in the mid-1800's and expressionists like Max Ernst and Otto Dix in the mid-1900's, Düsseldorf continues to lean forward with its art and houses many modern art museums.
The city also commissioned Californian Frank Gehry to design these three office buildings in the media harbor (1999). Reflections of the red and white buildings as well as the changing sky play across the silver surfaces. I love this trio, and I'm excited to see more Gehry in Prague in a couple of months.
This fine city hall and cobbled square lie near the Rhine.
Back in December, the square looked a little different:
In general, it's just a nice place to stroll along the promenade...
...listen to street musicians (these kids were on fire! Future Hanson!)...
...look at the Rhine...
...and enjoy an ice cream cone on a summer's night.
Simply magical. I'm kind of aching to visit you.
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