Mediterranean Femina

It is hard to describe what it's like to spend 10 days traveling in foreign countries alone with an 18-month-old. Invigorating and exhausting, companionable and lonely, the blend of which created an experience I will always treasure and, admittedly, feel proud of. I will describe events here, although I know it will be an imperfect representation of the days we spent together. If you imagine swimming and singing together in the sea, sharing pesto pasta and a gelato ice cream, trying to read the guide book with Daisy not exactly helping, transporting the stroller, diapers, backpack, beach mat on and off trains with the help of friendly Italians (and the side effect of many bruises on my legs)...this may be a truer general picture than the details I list below.

Nice, France





We spent the first half of our trip in the French Riviera. Our home base was Nice, a wonderful city that seemed like a mini-Paris transported to southern California. Old Nice has a lively atmosphere, fresh markets, and great restaurants in its narrow streets. Our taste buds loved it here: fruit from Provence, traditional Nicoise cuisine like chickpea crepes and, yes, Salad Nicoise, and creative gelato flavors like "Lavender," and "Jasmine," and "Tomato Basil." Also, the children of a former "Best Baker in France" carry on his bakery in Nice, and we savored croissants and cheesy breads. Needless to say, I'm pushing for a Provence trip before we leave Europe, and I'd better save up for a good-sized food budget.

Nice's beach is rocky, meaning that it is filled with smooth, fist-sized gray oval stones. It had very small waves and was pretty warm. I wish that I could still take Daisy to the beach every day.

Antibes, France


We took a day-trip to Antibes, which has sandy beaches and a nice old city. I explored an outdoor antique market while Daisy napped in the stroller. Some tempting copper items, but I was traveling light...Instead, I took home a sunburn from Antibes.

Monaco


I could not the resist the opportunity of seeing the world's second smallest country (after Vatican City). My sightseeing lasted no more than two hours, and included Monte Carlo's casino, the sites of the Monaco Grand Prix, the fancy yachts in the harbor, and the exteriors of its palace. I think I saw most of the country. Cousteau once served as the director of Monaco's Oceanographical Museum. It interested me that, according to ancient myth, Hercules came here and got rid of the previous gods. Thus, a temple for him, "Hercules Monoikos," was built. Being the only temple in the area, it is how the area came to be known as Monaco.

Upon descending from the train station down into the city, I worried about how strenuous the uphill climb would be. The city seemed built on a cliff! Little did I know the amazing outdoor elevator system Monaco has! I ascended a few levels at a time, would walk through some courtyards, and took maybe 5 elevators in this fashion all they way back up to the station. How bizarre.


Cinque Terre, Italy: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore



I spent the last half of my trip in these five (cinque) towns, with Vernazza as my home base. I showed up early in the morning and rang doorbells to find a room for four nights. After a few inquiries, we found Franca and her available double bed with bath, no view, but window with my own drying line outside of it! One day, wanting to let me know that she would be out of town during the day, should I need anything, she hollered my name up through the window. Another day, wanting to clarify when I would be leaving, she found me on the beach. I think Daisy still remembers Franca.

Daisy went through a process of screaming at strangers who smiled at her or simply made eye contact. Since we were in Italy, I tried to teach her to say "Ciao" instead of screaming. She caught on and still says "Ciao" when she sees strangers. (I think that she thinks it means "stranger.") Italy was fun: every coy "ciao" was responded to with a hearty "Ciao, Bella!" and a few minutes of play.

We spent time in all five towns. One morning we hiked for a couple hours to a neighboring towns of Vernazza, Corniglia. Other times, I took the train or a boat. There is an amazing local type of sweet dessert wine which I sampled, and I couldn't get enough focaccia, local cheese and pesto, or gelato. A relaxing time with plenty to do. Perfect. We got into a rhythm. After Daisy's nap, we would play at the beach and eat fruit, come home, shower, and put on our dresses, and go out for dinner.

Milan, Italy

We only had a few hours in Milan before catching the bus to the airport, but we had time to see the magnificent Duomo and the famous La Scala opera house. The stained glass of the cathedral really impressed me. I almost was not allowed in because of my tank top, but I had a T-shirt to throw on at the bottom of my backpack.

Home!
After a last morning in Vernazza, 2 trains to Milan, subways around the city of Milan, an hour-long bus ride to the airport, and a 9 PM flight back to Dusseldorf, followed by an 11:30 PM train into Muelheim and long walk to apartment, we were exhausted. We slept well and woke up to the day that we would see Chris/Dada again. It was hard to be apart, but it was about as great as it could possibly be. I'm so thankful for the travel budget I had and Chris' blessing to see new places without him!