Saturday, February 20, 2010

Santorini

One of the largest volcanic explosions in recorded history, ~1600 B.C. , left behind this crescent-shaped island with water-filled caldera. You can see layers of lava and ash along its inner cliffs, and bringing agriculture to this volcanic soil produces world-renowned wine and tomatoes. Our hotel room was bored into the soft volcanic rock, cave-style. The picturesque towns spotted with massive blue domes perch atop (or in) these cliffs, making the island unique among the Greek islands. For you who enjoy trivia: there are over 2,000 islands that belong to Greece, 227 of which are actually inhabited. Of these, only 78 islands have more than 100 inhabitants. Santorini's tourist areas were deserted at this time of year, and we've never felt so far away from the rest of the world.



The Red Beach near Akrotiri, an ancient Minoan civilization. Black and white beaches are also scattered around the island. The weather was so changeable. While here, we sought shelter during a downpour and were rewarded by this wonderful glow of light afterward. Daisy loved throwing rocks into the water and we took a lot of pictures. Some of the best items in Athens' archaeological museum are remains from the ancient sites here.






For such a tiny island, the streets are frustratingly confusing. As we pursued a (wrong) path through warehouses and deserted lots, we stumbled upon a pretty view over a classic blue dome and white bell tower in front of the caldera. We eventually had to backtrack and find a new street to get us to where we wanted to go. But we had apparently found the iconic photo spot! A deck of cards we bought the next day featured the same shot on the back. Just another reminder about life - sometimes it is when plans go wrong that the best things happen! Also featured in this picture is my new olive broach that Chris helped me shop for while in Athens. I love what it adds to my coat!

A stormy night turns into morning:


On night after dinner, we tried walking home along the cliff path. After a while, it got so windy that we were actually frightened about getting knocked down into the sea, or that some nailed-down shutters would fly off and hit us. Giggling nervously, we turned around and took a different route. As the rain started to come down, we happily took out our umbrellas we remembered to pack. Instantaneously - "Pwump" - inside-out umbrellas, soaked clothes, a shivering 2-year-old, and squishy shoes. At first, we tried to avoid the big puddles, but as the sloping streets became rivers, we gave up. We finally made it home, gave thanks for the impulse that made us pack 2nd pairs of pants, and stayed dry for the rest of the night. What happened next will remain a mystery for the rest of our lives.

A woman called, saying that she was from our hotel's front desk and that she needed to inform us that a typhoon was headed towards the island, and that nothing could arrive at or leave from the island until Thursday - 2 days after we were scheduled to leave by ferry! We bemoaned our decision to come to an island in the winter, made a list of the cancellations we would need to do online the next day, and slept fitfully that night. However, the next morning (seeing the rainbows and blue sky), we went to the office and inquired about the weather. The man working there brushed off our question, which made us bring up our previous night's messenger. He tilted his head and explained that no woman was even on staff at the hotel! We either had someone trying to make a profit off of us (if more tourists aren't coming, just try to keep the ones who ARE here stay longer!) or else just enjoyed causing trouble. Can you believe it?

The "John Constable turns cubist" scenery in the village of Oia. We took a city bus, packed with rowdy middle school students, through windy cliff-side roads. School must have just gotten out. Imagine growing up here! It made me think of my uncle, aunt, and cousins living on Kauai. Chris spotted some kids opening up a science book and noticed a periodic table. He was itching to know how they represented the elements in Greek textbooks...but never got a conversation going. Daisy stayed occupied on the bus by opening up our passports and looking at the photographs. And then throwing the passports on the floor of the bus. At least it wasn't out the window...



We said farewell to the beauty and quiet solitude and rode a ferry for 7 hours all the way back to Athens, weaving between islands the whole route. It was comfortable with the buffet restaurant, empty outdoor deck for playing, and bedroom we had rented for nap time. I had planned ahead and brought some motion-sickness-combating chewing gum with me, which did the job.
This yellow circle that you see Daisy walking on was a huge hit. We sang "Kinderzug" (Kids Train) and the Hokey Pokey around it many, many times.

Later on, back in Athens, we learned that the airports in the whole country were shut down for a strike on the day we were supposed to fly home. Because of our serious reaction to the prank call on Santorini, it already felt like we had been delayed, and we despaired of ever being able to leave the country! I also felt like I had "wised up" to this sort of "tourist trap" and did my own internet research. Alas, this one was for real. (Admittedly, I felt like a paranoiac for not believing our nice hotel clerk.) An extra day in Athens! It could have been worse *wink*.

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